OCBD (Oxford-Cloth Button-Down)

OCBD stands for oxford-cloth button-down: a shirt in basket-weave oxford cloth with a collar that buttons to the body. It is the workhorse of casual menswear because it dresses up under a jacket and down with chinos, and it improves with washing. What separates a good one: a collar with a natural roll (not flat and stiff), single-needle stitching, real cotton weight, and a fit that is neither tent nor sausage casing. Because everyone makes one, the OCBD is the clearest place to see construction differences at wildly different prices.